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2011年5月30日星期一

"The Nepal super Sherpa" says farewell to Everest (AFP)

Kathmandu (AFP) - Apa Sherpa, the Nepalese climber who conquered Mount Everest a record 21 times, said Saturday his last ascent of the highest Summit of the world would last.

The father of 51 years three, nicknamed the "Super Sherpa" for the apparent ease with which it climbs, said that he wanted to give more young mountaineers a chance, but that it would not be dropped the sport in total.

"I decided to call it quits.". Whenever I monte Everest, my family worried about me, "Sherpa told AFP in the Nepalese capital, Kathmandu, after the extension of his own record with a 21st ascent of Mount Everest."

"I would like to give a chance for young mountaineers, but I will not abandon the mountains that I invested my life." I will train new climbers. ?

Sherpa, who was born in the Nepal, but now lives in the United States, first to the scale of the (29,028 feet) peak of 8, 848-metre in 1990.

He spoke to Everest dramatic changes over the past two decades, and after an expedition last year, said the higher temperatures were the mountain more in more dangerous for climbers.

"The snow slopes had melted, exposing bare rock below, which makes it very difficult for us to go up the slope as no there was no snow to dig our crampons in,"he told AFP in an interview."."

The climber has spent his last four ascents to the efforts to preserve the Everest, with Sherpa people consider sacred, and this year rise with a team of suppression of the tons of rubbish left by previous climbers.

Last year, Sherpa has created a foundation dedicated to the improvement of education in the remote Himalayan region where he grew up and on Saturday, he said, that it would now focus on the mobilization of funds for the charity.

About 3,000 people have it made at the Summit of Mount Everest since Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay became the first to conquer the mountain in 1953.

The season on Everest summit begins in late April and may, when a small window between the spring and the summer monsoon offers the best conditions for climbing.


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2011年5月22日星期日

American survivor of ' 96 tragedy scales Everest (AFP)

Kathmandu (AFP) - a survivor of U.S. of the disaster of Mount Everest in the best-selling book "Into Thin Air" conquered the peak for the second time Friday to lay the ghosts of 1996 tragedy to rest.

Professional climber Neal Beidleman, 51, had guided a group at the top of the highest mountain of the world and was on its way to the bottom when a huge storm blew on 10 May 1996, the capture of two climbing teams high on the mountain.

In the confusion that followed, eight people were killed and many horribly disfigured by frostbite in what has become one of the worst disasters in the history of mountaineering.

The expedition web site, http://mteverest2011.com, said Beidleman reached the Summit Friday early with three climbing companions.

"It's a beautiful day, a little cold with light winds, and we are simply happy to be here," climber William Allen reported by telephone to the top of the audio clip posted on the site.

Before leaving for Everest, Beidleman told the New York Times the mountain was "stapled and tattooed on my forehead" and said that he wanted the expedition to be a "closed chapter."

"The truth is hard, and it is ugly," said. "We went to the mountain (in 1996) with high expectations for manufacturing of the Summit and entry happy home." (And not everyone has.) ?

Among the victims was a friend of Beidleman and an employer Scott Fischer, who is thought have found the death of the altitude sickness and whose body was left on the mountain at the request of his family.

Beidleman told the newspaper that he would seek to place of rest of Fischer on the mountain for his tribute, saying that he hoped the trip would be providing "a little closure".

The tragedy of 1996 remains controversial in the mountaineering community, with some accused of guides to endanger the lives of clients by pushing the Summit as the weather closed in.

Jon Krakauer, who has been a member of one of the teams and written "in Thin Air", also accused at least a guide not to be enough to save his colleagues climbing on the mountain.

However, Beidleman, was hailed for her efforts save climbers who struggle with frozen temperatures and lack of oxygen, while attempting to descend.

A spokesman for explore Himalaya, which hosted the last shipment of Beidleman, said team had descended to the South Col, where they would rest overnight before continuing down the mountain.

In all, 65 climbers reached the Summit of Mount Everest Friday on the Nepalese side of the mountain that straddles the border between China and the Nepal, Tilak Pandey said AFP government official.

About 3,000 people have it made at the Summit of the peak, 8,848 meters (29,028 feet) since Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay first conquered it in 1953.

The Summit on Everest season begins in late April, when a small window between the spring and the summer monsoon offers the best conditions for climbing.


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