Kathmandu (AFP) - a survivor of U.S. of the disaster of Mount Everest in the best-selling book "Into Thin Air" conquered the peak for the second time Friday to lay the ghosts of 1996 tragedy to rest.
Professional climber Neal Beidleman, 51, had guided a group at the top of the highest mountain of the world and was on its way to the bottom when a huge storm blew on 10 May 1996, the capture of two climbing teams high on the mountain.
In the confusion that followed, eight people were killed and many horribly disfigured by frostbite in what has become one of the worst disasters in the history of mountaineering.
The expedition web site, http://mteverest2011.com, said Beidleman reached the Summit Friday early with three climbing companions.
"It's a beautiful day, a little cold with light winds, and we are simply happy to be here," climber William Allen reported by telephone to the top of the audio clip posted on the site.
Before leaving for Everest, Beidleman told the New York Times the mountain was "stapled and tattooed on my forehead" and said that he wanted the expedition to be a "closed chapter."
"The truth is hard, and it is ugly," said. "We went to the mountain (in 1996) with high expectations for manufacturing of the Summit and entry happy home." (And not everyone has.) ?
Among the victims was a friend of Beidleman and an employer Scott Fischer, who is thought have found the death of the altitude sickness and whose body was left on the mountain at the request of his family.
Beidleman told the newspaper that he would seek to place of rest of Fischer on the mountain for his tribute, saying that he hoped the trip would be providing "a little closure".
The tragedy of 1996 remains controversial in the mountaineering community, with some accused of guides to endanger the lives of clients by pushing the Summit as the weather closed in.
Jon Krakauer, who has been a member of one of the teams and written "in Thin Air", also accused at least a guide not to be enough to save his colleagues climbing on the mountain.
However, Beidleman, was hailed for her efforts save climbers who struggle with frozen temperatures and lack of oxygen, while attempting to descend.
A spokesman for explore Himalaya, which hosted the last shipment of Beidleman, said team had descended to the South Col, where they would rest overnight before continuing down the mountain.
In all, 65 climbers reached the Summit of Mount Everest Friday on the Nepalese side of the mountain that straddles the border between China and the Nepal, Tilak Pandey said AFP government official.
About 3,000 people have it made at the Summit of the peak, 8,848 meters (29,028 feet) since Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay first conquered it in 1953.
The Summit on Everest season begins in late April, when a small window between the spring and the summer monsoon offers the best conditions for climbing.
没有评论:
发表评论